GREG LONG 
Age: 26
Hometown: San Clemente
Sponsors: Billabong, Xcel Wetsuits, Von Zipper, Ocean Minded
Years Pro: 8
Favorite Spot: Mavericks, Todos Santos, Cortes Bank, Pipeline, Hitchcock’s, Trestles
Who or what inspires you: I draw inspiration from so many different things in this world. People, places, music etc. It would be an endless list…it seems as though I am inspired by something new every day.
Who do you look up to: Anybody who is out there pursuing their passion or dream.
Other Interests: Yoga, fishing, diving, reading, training, good food, happy people with good energy and a positive outlook on life.
Greg was born and raised in San Clemente, where he grew up on the beach. His father, Steve, was the lifeguard supervisor for the San Clemente and San Onofre State Parks and Greg was introduced to the water and surfing at a very young age. He began surfing competitively at 12, and continued to surf at the top of his class during the years following. Along the way he met local Big Wave hero Jon Walla, who took Greg under his wing and introduced him to the world of big wave surfing. At age 15, following the lead of his mentor, he soon found himself tackling some of the largest waves in the world. His competitive focus and desire quickly took a back seat to his new found passion, but not before taking one last victory at the NSSA National Championships during the summer of 2001. Greg surfed his way to a dramatic underdog victory, clinching the 2001 Open Men’s Title at his home break Trestles. Renowned as one of the most prestigious amateur events in the world, his name is now enshrined among a list of past champions along the likes of Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, and CJ Hobgood.
This amateur title opened a huge door of support for Greg. However, he was very reluctant to conform to the constraints and vigorous travel schedule being that of the WQS as so many past champions had. Instead, Greg decided to blaze his own path. He set out on a quest to fulfill his new found passion of big wave surfing and began traveling the globe searching for the most challenging waves on the planet.
Greg is now often referred to as “The best young big wave surfer on the planet.” His name, face, and big wave exploits have been featured in magazine publications from Surfer to Sports Illustrated, Outside, Men’s Fitness and countless others, as well as newspapers and surf films across the globe. Following an “endless winter” he tracks and follows the biggest storms and swells around the planet, and has become seemingly adept at being in the right location at the perfect moment. At 25 years of age, his big wave credentials and accolades speak for themselves. He is currently the winingest surfer at the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave awards with a total of 8 nominations and 4 awards. He won “performer of the year” in 2005 and 2008, Biggest Paddle-in wave in 2008, and Biggest Wave of the Year in 2007 with a 65-foot behemoth caught down off the southern cape of Africa at a break called Dungeons.
In 2003 at the age of 19 he won the Red Bull Big Wave Africa, the second longest running big wave paddle event in the world. That win earned him an invite the following year to the Mavericks Surf Contest where he placed second in 2005, and won the event in 2008. In 2008, he also earned an official invitation to the “Eddie Aikau” Big wave invitation held at Waimea Bay Hawaii. Renowned as the most prestigious big wave event of all time, Greg has become one of only two surfers in the world to be invited to all three major big wave paddle events. He took home $50,000 at this year’s Billabong XXL Awards this year.
Outside of surfing Greg, has been using his increasing notoriety in an effort to help give back to the surfing community. He is currently involved with a number of environmental organizations including Surfrider, Save the Waves, Wildcoast and The San Onofre Foundation. He also dedicates his time to giving motivation talks and presentations to schools and community groups. He uses his stories and life lessons as a vehicle to encourage others to follow their dreams, challenge themselves to live a healthy lifestyle, and contribute to the well being of their community.
Source: Billabong
- Check out this OC Register feature on Greg Long
• See more profiles and pics of the OC Surfer of the Year nominees
