Surfline.com forecaster Kevin Wallis gives us a look at how the waves will be over the holiday weekend:

Warm, sunny weather will continue Thursday and Friday, as Southern California will be under the influence of high pressure. Expect light northeast wind in the mornings, light westerly flow in the afternoons and beach temps in the low to mid 70’s. A brief cooling trend will take over Friday, with beach temps 5-10 degrees cooler, before warming weather returns over the weekend and we potentially see Santa Ana winds develop.
 
Our surf for most breaks on Wednesday will be small, off a mixture of Northwest swells. Average breaks see 1-2’+ waves, while top northwest exposed breaks in the extreme north half of the county see inconsistent 2-4’ surf. Larger waves will build for the second half of the week and into the weekend, thanks to a strong storm now moving into the Gulf of Alaska. Although most breaks will remain small through the day on Thursday, select breaks in the extreme north half of the county will build into the 4-6’ range for the late afternoon and evening.
 
By Friday, the new northwest swell will fill in further with 4-5’ surf at many breaks throughout the county and waves to double that size of 6-10’ at top exposed spots, again in the extreme north half of the county. The surf will gradually come down on Saturday and will continue to fade for the end of the weekend. Stay tuned to Surfline.com for all the latest details on our swell later this week, as well as a longer range forecast. Have fun, be safe and we’ll see you out in the water!
 
Kevin Wallis
www.surfline.com

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