
If there’s ever a time of year cherished by surfers and beach lovers along the coast, it’s now.
After the chaos of summer dwindles, the crowds and tourists take off and peace quietly lingers over the sand.
This month has given us a handful of those great surf days that make us remember why we love this sport so much.
It’s because of this transitional time that the surf – especially at beach breaks – is so great, says Sean Collins, chief forecaster at Surfline.com.
“In fall, we get a combo swell – remaining southern hemisphere swells, hurricane swells and early west and northwest swells – to create better shaped waves,” he explains.
“Combine that with offshore winds, and it creates some of the best surfing conditions of the year,” Collins said.
Those offshore winds that typically show in October – while subtle so far this year - also contribute to the amazing sunsets. The wind coming off the land makes it drier and clear of clouds, and the winds whip the dust out to sea, which makes the horizon glow, he says.
Still, the waters are unusually warm, allowing surfers to trunk it or keep their spring suits out. And on Monday, the water was so clear when I sitting on my board in Newport that I could see the patches of seaweed on the ocean’s floor, and the schools of fish swimming nearby.
One of my favorite surf photographers, Diane Edmonds of Eppicsurf.com, has been out tirelessly capturing the beauty along the coast. Enjoy!



Awesome pictures. I remember many years ago surfing at 15th Street in Del Mar and dolphins surfing in the waves next to us. It was awesome and the picture with the dolphins brings back this great memory. Thanks.