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Surf shots: Swell comes in, snaps from HB and Newport
October 15th, 2009, 6:40 pm · 2 Comments · posted by Laylan Connelly, staff writer
The swell came in a bit later than expected, but there were plenty to be had today as it reached Orange County’s shore.
Waves were getting in the 6-foot range down in Huntington Beach this morning, and though a bit smaller down in Newport there were plenty of surfers out catching waves.
Check out some of the snaps we got out there in our slideshow, maybe we got one of you:
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Great sequence of shots!!!
This surfer shows great class and knowledge not only in the ride but how to end or” wipe out” safely in beach break conditions.
Several people each year receive neck and head injuries because they dive head first into the water at the conclusion or breaking point of their ride.
Naturals know how to shallowdive and porpose out the backside of the wave almost untouched by the waves energy upon wipeout. The risk is diving too deep and catching a header on the bottom which can be fatal.
This surfer show a safer controled wipeout that will fill your nose with water and provide a tumble but is unlikely to cause a head injury.
If you have to bail on larger surf, the ass first ejection mode is the safest way to end your ride.
And besides, if your a real surfer wiping out is half the fun!!
Thanks Scott - I’ve done way too many stories on surfers breaking their necks, so it’s always great to remind people of the dangers out there. It makes me nervous every time I’m out. thanks again and hope you got some fun ones!