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Surfer with cancer inducted into Hall of Fame

September 18th, 2009, 12:39 pm · 13 Comments · posted by Laylan Connelly, staff writer

Corwin Reno remembers joking in his younger years with Chris Hawk about growing old together, how they’d one day have wheelchair races on the pier and throw marbles at the young kids surfing.   

 ”Don’t leave me alone to do it. I want you here with me,” Reno said, choking back tears in front of an emotional crowd gathered in front of Huntington Surf and Sport.

Hawk, a long-time Huntington Beach surfer and surfboard shaper diagnosed with throat cancer, was honored today with a special induction into the Surfers’ Hall of Fame, placing his hands and feet into cement at the corner of Main and Pacific Coast Highway.

hall_bigslide

Inductions are usually given in July during the U.S.  Open of Surfing, but a special exception was given to Hawk as he continues to fight cancer. He has been on the list of potential inductees for a long time, said HSS owner Aaron Pai.

“I’m sorry, I can’t talk much,” said a raspy-voiced Hawk, one hand held up to his throat where a blue bandanna covered his neck, the other hand clutching a trophy. “This is the most honorable moment of my life.”

Stories from long-time surfers were told of Hawk, who was referred to as the “Kelly Slater of Huntington Beach” back in the 70s. When Hawk would walk down Main Street on his way to his favorite spot on the north side of the Huntington Beach pier, the surfers who idolized him would whisper to each other “Look! There’s  Chris Hawk!”

“We’re doing this for him now, so he can see it and he can see how much people care,” said long-time friend Bushman Orozco.

His surfing style is distinct and graceful, smooth and soulful, and back in the day no one dared to get in his way out in the line up. He’d sit on the outside, wait for the biggest wave to come, then get barrelled.

“We felt like we were part of a movement that has evolved into what you see today,” said Jericho Poppler, former women’s surf champion.

It was more than his skills as a surfer and shaper that make him unique. He’s a man of integrity, a mentor to the surfers who looked up to him.

“A lot of us grew up without fathers, and he’d listen to our problems,” said Chip Rowland.

Hawk joins a long list of influential surfers who have had an impact on the surf culture. In cement, he etched a signature that graces the many boards he’s shaped over the years. And next to his footprints, he wrote the words: Peace. Love. Surf.

His wife Kathy describes him as a simple, proud and honorable man – and said she was glad his son Christian, 11, could hear all the great things people had to say about him.  

“I’m just overwhelmed with all the love and respect he’s been shown,” said his wife Kathy. “It’s been a long time coming.”

There will be a Chris Hawk  Expression Session at 3:30 p.m. Sunday at the south side of the pier after a surf contest. Only people riding Hawk boards are allowed in the water, and the $20 to participate goes to his continued treatment. Also, HSS is selling a special Chris Hawk t-shirt through the weekend, with proceeds going to Hawk. Also, a portion of the Friday sidewalk sale will go to Hawk.

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 13 Comments

  • Gerry says:

    Nothing in here regarding his prognosis. I hope it’s not dire, that he’s got a chance and that the donations will cover his needed treatments. I will hope for the best for him. He presents a living, breathing example of why the nation needs a good universal health care plan.

    • amy says:

      They better hold a lot of events if that is how they are going to pay for his treatments. Universal single payer is what we need, get rid of the health insurance MOB. Best wishes to Chris and his family!

  • brandon says:

    Chris Hawk

    drink alkalized ionized water and be Chris Hawk the guy who beat cancer and lived along healthy life with his wife.

    there is only one dis-ease, thats over acidity, we must alkalize and all dis-ease will disapear!

    hard to believe but TRUE. hope you read this

    spreading the word of wellness for all!

    • amy says:

      No offense Brandon, but acidity has nothing to do with my dis-ease of Type 1 Diabetes…I wish things were that simple.

  • Greg says:

    Really Amy? Can’t we leave the politics out of this? Are you suggesting that people in single payer countries do not die from cancer?

    Your point is absurd in the mildest terms…

  • T says:

    All of these shapers are dying of some form of cancer. It’s a real shame. The surfing industry needs to come together to form some sort of catastrophic health union for these guys. Surfers hang out when times are good but now in this terrible moment they need to come together not just for a single event but to really do something lasting for this industry. HERE THAT SOUL SURFERS!

  • Nancy says:

    I am Chris Hawk’s sister Nancy and I would like to say THANK YOU to everyone for their good wishes, prayers and contributions on Chris’ behalf. My daughter and I traveled from Alabama to California for his benefit and we are still in awe of the surfing community and their love. We would love to have copies of any pictures and/or video taken of this monumental event in his life. He was so honored to be recognized by his peers and I have so pround of him, Sam and Tom for their accomplishments. Love to all of you.

  • Bags says:

    Why would you fools bring politics of ANY kind into this situation? Chris is about Surfing, and innovation and kindness. The Brothers Hawk have always been in front of the “trends” in Surfing. Chris has been a friend and cohort since high school, few others I respect more. Now he is a man seeking to ensure his son`s future is bright. With the help of Kathy, Sam, Tom, other family, and those Chris has touched far and wide, anything CAN be done.

  • billy Goff (bummer) says:

    Nancy do you know if there are still Chris Hawk tee shirts for sale? I have known Chris for many, many years and I was unable to come last month. He visited me three years ago in the bay area and brought me a surfboard and wetsuit. I hope and pray for his recovery. My wife was also diagnoised with cancer last December and she is in remission now. Hoping and praying for only the best for Chris and his family.

  • Shelley says:

    I’m Chris’s cousin, Shelley. Our mother’s were sisters. I posted a slide show of the Paddle Out ceremony if you’d like to view it on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9RwdX-9Be8
    It was moving and beautiful. Thank you to all the surfers who came out, and to Kathy for doing so much to make it happen,

 
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